Australia’s most acid-tongued food critic says the unthinkable about beloved brand as it shuts doors for good after 120 years
As a seasoned food critic with decades of experience under my belt, I must say that Lethlean’s departure from The Australian left a significant void in the culinary world Down Under. His unique style and unparalleled insight were always a joy to read, even when his wordiness could be overwhelming.
Australia’s sharpest food critic, known for his biting wit, has sparked controversy among his followers by commenting on the demise of a well-loved local cheese manufacturer in a way that some perceive as disrespectful or mocking, likening it to dancing on their grave.
In his recent write-up, John Lethlean, a seasoned critic with over 20 years of experience in restaurant and food reviewing for prominent Australian publications, took issue with King Island Dairy.
Next year, the Canadian-owned Tasmanian cheese shop that’s been around for 120 years will close its doors permanently. This decision was made public about a month ago, affecting 58 employees who now find themselves without work.
For the past ten months, uncertainty surrounded the business’s future, following Saputo initiating an in-depth analysis of their specialized cheese production plant, known for producing exquisite cheeses such as brie and blue vein.
Operations for King Island Dairy date back to the early 1900s, making it a significant employer on this small island inhabited by approximately 1,600 residents.
Lethlean described King Island Dairy’s brie as ‘rubbish’ and ‘devoid of any character’ in his scathing post.
‘The recently announced corporate demise of King Island Dairy should have taken nobody who loves cheese by surprise,’ Lethlean began his latest missive.
The cheeses have never been particularly good, and the supposed brie I’m holding… lacks any distinctive flavor at all, unless one’s preference for a soft, white-rinded cheese is simply an overabundance of industrially added salt.
‘Awful.’
The short and sharp take down was posted alongside a rather unappetising photo of a piece of cheese sweating in crumpled tin foil.
Lethlean divided his fans with his stinky review.
Premium smoked fish brand Bellarine Smokehouse poked some Swiss-sized holes in his comments.
In a more positive and respectful manner, the Melbourne business account stated: ‘Celebrating the downfall of a company that provided jobs for half an island is not appropriate behavior. I was raised with the belief that if you have nothing positive to contribute, it’s best to stay silent.’
On this tiny island, it’s the primary job provider – so, one might wonder, what options could the locals have for earning a living moving forward?
It might be beneficial to explore the regulations regarding foreign ownership in our primary producing industries, especially considering the current context. This conversation could prove highly relevant…
The comment racked up 46 likes, but Lethlean also had support for his take.
One person expressed their joy by saying, “It’s wonderful to hear your agreement! I’ve always found it quite dull, even compared to something incredibly uninteresting.
‘This wordiness of this post is also a depressing reminder of how I’d look forward to reading Lethlean in the Aus[tralian] on eating and there’s now a void which doesn’t look like it will be filled anytime soon,’ one diehard fan of his added.
Meanwhile, a third asked Lethlean, ‘Is this a review of yourself?’
In 2022, Lethlean hung up his powerful writing tool at The Australian, only to land in trouble the following year due to offensive remarks he made towards a waitress in 2023.
In a post for Delicious last year, Lethlean mentioned that the hostess or receptionist often wore an outfit that might unintentionally reveal more than just her lack of experience when she bent over to arrange a table.
Due to a massive negative reaction from both the hospitality sector and the public, he felt compelled to take a temporary break from Instagram.
In simpler terms, Leanne Cutts, who is the COO at Saputo, shared that the choice to close down the well-known Tasmanian business was a challenging one for them.
She stated that every potential solution had been examined, and closing up operations seemed to be the best strategy for enhancing Saputo’s competitive edge in an evolving market.
Speaking about King Island Dairy, since its heritage is closely tied with the local area, it was desired that the strategic evaluation might uncover a possible purchaser for the plant, as stated by Ms Cutts.
‘It is a unique brand, with a plant that is nearly 100 years old.
Although King Island Dairy products carry a sentimental value for many Australians, sadly, the brand hasn’t kept up with its former standing in the highly competitive modern food market.
2019 saw Saputo acquiring King Island Dairy, which was a part of the cheese-focused business they obtained from Lion Dairy & Drinks that year.
The statement confirms that 58 employees will likely be impacted, however, suitable alternative positions within the company will be sought out if possible.
Ms Cutts said Saputo would work with dairy farmers and the island’s broader community.
Tasmanian Premier Jeremy Rockliff said Saputo’s decision was very disappointing.
He stated that we are swiftly aiding the employees, farmers, and the broader community of the island right away.
Mr. Rockliff mentioned that the state administration is ready to collaborate with the firm, aiming for joint efforts in searching for a potential new manager.
Saputo describes itself as one of the top 10 dairy processors in the world.
King Island boasts a distinctive climate due to its geographical position, offering abundant pastures that are particularly favorable for cows, resulting in exceptionally sweet milk.
In addition, Saputo acquired the brand previously known as Coon Cheese (now known as Cheer Cheese) around a decade back, after buying a majority stake in Warrnambool Cheese and Butter.
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2024-10-21 08:21