Under the volcano, a city converses with its past in the haunting ‘Pompei: Below the Clouds’

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Visiting Naples is like stepping directly into history. It’s not just about ruins; the past is everywhere, beautifully worn into the city’s very fabric. And looming over everything is Vesuvius – a constant reminder that history isn’t just what’s happened on the surface, but everything that lies beneath our feet, ready to reshape the world again. It’s a powerful, almost unsettling feeling, realizing how much of the past is still actively present.

Gianfranco Rosi’s documentary, “Pompei: Below the Clouds,” captures the unique feeling of Naples – a city deeply connected to its rich and ancient past. Whether you live there or are just visiting, that history is always present. Rosi, known for his film “Fire at Sea,” lets the city and its people speak for themselves, offering a quietly observant and thoughtful portrait without excessive narration. He trusts the viewer to connect with the atmosphere of both beauty and unease that permeates the city.

From ancient tunnels dug by thieves to modern trains constantly in motion, the film is a visually and emotionally rich experience. It subtly explores how time can both keep things alive and ultimately lead to their decay, as one of the characters points out.

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Rosi’s film, beautifully shot in black and white with a static camera, makes the present feel perpetually connected to the past. He repeatedly shows an abandoned, decaying cinema screening fragments of old films – silent movies like “The Last Days of Pompeii,” Rossellini’s “Journey to Italy,” and historical documentaries – almost as if he’s reaching out to filmmakers of earlier eras. Perhaps he’s subtly suggesting that the act of going to the movies is as fragile and threatened as the people who live near Mount Vesuvius, whose eruption in AD 79 remains a defining, inescapable event for the region.

What really strikes me about Rosi’s films is how they portray people who are deeply connected to the past, and to each other. You see it in the way a museum curator treats ancient statues – almost like old friends. Or the Japanese archaeologists carefully excavating Pompeii, genuinely wanting to learn about the lives lost there. Even the prosecutor, surveying a looted villa, isn’t just focused on the crime, but on the cultural theft – the loss of a community’s connection to its heritage. It’s like everyone in these films is a guardian of memory, and it’s incredibly moving.

In Naples, the fire department is always ready to respond to residents’ concerns, especially those related to the nearby Mount Vesuvius – its smoke and gas are constant reminders of life’s fragility, a visual motif in the film. For Syrian sailors arriving with grain from Odessa, Naples offers a moment of peace compared to the dangers they’ve faced at home and during the war. And for a sense of hope, many visit Titti, a beloved retired teacher who runs an after-school program for local children.

“Pompei: Below the Clouds” is a beautifully crafted film, expertly edited by Fabrizio Federico and featuring a captivating score by Oscar winner Daniel Blumberg. While it won’t teach you about the city of Naples itself, the film powerfully explores the contrast between the ancient ruins and modern life, and the feeling of being a temporary visitor. This carefully curated collection of footage is a pleasure to experience, offering a thoughtful reflection on the fleeting nature of existence within a place that feels both immense and timeless.

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2026-03-13 20:01