The beauty burn book: Insiders reveal the REAL hierarchy in the $16billion industry. Why one mega-rich mogul DOESN’T make the A-list… and the household name who tumbled to the bottom

Australia’s beauty industry is a huge market, worth around $16 billion, but the quality and practices of businesses within it vary greatly.

Despite the polished marketing and partnerships with social media influencers, there’s a hidden hierarchy at play – one that isn’t simply based on the number of stores or how much a company sells.

Whether they’re luxury brands or not, the most successful beauty entrepreneurs – like Jo Horgan of Mecca and Amy Jean, the brow expert – aren’t just selling products; they’re leading the entire beauty world. They all operate with exceptional quality and style.

There’s no question that the celebrities just below the A-list are successful – some, like Zoe Foster Blake, actually earn more. However, wealth isn’t the only factor in becoming a trendsetter, and we’ll explain why…

The ‘C-list’ is where things get complicated. It’s a group of people including up-and-coming talents, once-powerful figures who are losing influence, and skilled individuals whose personal lives hold them back from reaching their full potential.

I’ve been following the beauty scene here for ages, and let me tell you, everyone’s got opinions! After chatting with bloggers, editors, and people in the know, we put together a fun, slightly scandalous ‘burn book’ about the Australian beauty industry. It’s a peek behind the curtain – you won’t believe what we found!

THE A-LIST 

Our A-list is of course topped by Jo Horgan, the untouchable queen of the Australian beauty biz. 

Jo founded and leads Mecca, a leading beauty retailer, launching her first store in Melbourne at just 29 years old.

Mecca provided a luxurious shopping experience, offering both knowledgeable staff and personalized attention to each customer.

Today, the company has more than 110 stores in Australia and New Zealand, carries over 200 brands, and earned $1.2 billion in revenue last year.

Right behind her is Shelley Sullivan, who revolutionized the beauty industry with her brand, MCoBeauty, offering luxury products at affordable prices.

As a beauty insider, I remember when ModelCo first hit the scene back in 2002 – it was a game-changer! The founder really shook things up with innovative products, and I especially recall being amazed by what was, to my knowledge, the very first heated lash curler. It was a truly revolutionary idea!

She started her second brand, MCoBeauty, in 2020, and quickly built it into a billion-dollar company by providing excellent products at prices people could afford, attracting a large customer base.

In February 2025, Sullivan resigned as CEO of MCoBeauty and sold her shares in the company to DBG Health.

This deal was one of the largest and most valuable mergers completed in Australia, and it was spearheaded by a female entrepreneur.

I’m so excited to see Kevin Murphy, a truly amazing hairstylist and the brilliant mind behind some incredible haircare products, join the ranks of the industry’s elite! He’s definitely earned his place among the best.

Kevin is famous for creating the effortlessly cool ‘beach hair’ style and is a highly skilled stylist working in fashion, magazines, and movies.

He’s been featured in top magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vanity Fair, and has worked with famous clients like Miranda Kerr, Kylie Minogue, Vanessa Hudgens, and Cate Blanchett.

KEVIN.MURPHY, his line of hair products, is popular in salons around the world. It’s known for using high-quality ingredients and eco-friendly packaging.

Also on the A-list is Beauty Chef founder Carla Oates.

Carla was a leader in the idea that true beauty comes from health and wellness. She created a unique line of skincare products you take orally, combining scientific research with the benefits of natural, whole foods. She believed – and famously said – that ‘beauty begins in the belly’.

What started as a small business run from her home kitchen in Bondi in 2009 quickly grew into a worldwide trend focused on beauty products you can actually eat.

As a lifestyle expert, I’ve been watching Carla’s journey with The Beauty Chef, and it’s truly inspiring! She’s built this incredible brand from the ground up, and now you can find their products in amazing stores like Sephora, Mecca, and even Goop. I’ve heard through the grapevine that celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and Naomi Watts are big fans, which speaks volumes about the quality and results!

In only four years, Samantha Appel, a well-known celebrity, has turned her skin-needling business, The Skin Bar, into one of Australia’s quickest-expanding skin clinics.

The Skin Bar specializes exclusively in skin-needling, a natural way to rejuvenate your skin without injections. This treatment uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries, which kickstart the skin’s natural healing process and promote regeneration.

She initially started her business with clinics in Cronulla, but soon grew to include locations in Victoria and Queensland. Her clientele includes well-known figures like Jesinta Franklin and Natalie Roser.

Samantha also provides free facials to women who are currently undergoing or recovering from cancer treatment, offering them a peaceful and supportive experience.

Despite her impressive success – preparing to open her tenth clinic with ten more planned for next year – this driven mother of two remains humble and doesn’t like to brag.

Amy Jean Linnehan, known professionally as Amy Jean, is a leading eyebrow stylist in Australia. She’s become famous for her innovative techniques, a dedicated celebrity clientele, and strong business skills, making her a highly sought-after expert in the field.

Amy Jean started her career as a cosmetic tattoo artist and soon opened her first salon in Sydney. She quickly became known for her careful work and talent for designing eyebrows that perfectly suit each client’s features.

I’ve been following her work for years, and honestly, her ‘feather touch’ technique is just incredible. It’s completely changed the game in the beauty world! That’s why everyone – celebrities, fashion experts, and editors like me – are desperate to work with her. It’s truly something special.

Amy Jean has grown her business over time, now with salons in Brisbane, Melbourne, and the Gold Coast. She’s also hosted temporary locations, called pop-ups, in London and Paris.

She sells her popular brow tools and cosmetics in major stores, which has solidified her status as a leader in the beauty industry.

THE B-LIST 

Although not the most famous, B-list beauty influencers in Australia are still highly respected and successful.

Topping our B-list is Joh Bailey, the celebrated hairstylist and salon owner. 

In 1983, Joh Bailey launched his salon brand, quickly gaining a reputation for serving famous clients like Elle Macpherson, Kylie Minogue, and Princess Diana.

So why place him in the B-list? 

People were surprised in 2017 when Bailey publicly refuted a scandalous story in the tabloids, which claimed he was stepping back from his work because of personal problems.

He admitted he wasn’t proud of how he’d been acting and had assured his business partner, Marilyn Koch, that he would stop drinking in public. However, he insisted he was still in control of himself, as he told The Sydney Morning Herald.

Er, great!

In 2022, rumors surfaced of a rivalry between Bailey and two former apprentices. They had opened their own hair salons close to his, leading to talk of a ‘turf war’ in the Double Bay area.

‘Joh’s a pro, but it all felt very Sydney and very petty,’ sniped an insider. 

Zoe Foster Blake might be surprised to find herself considered ‘B-list,’ but there are understandable reasons why the creator of the popular skincare brand Go-To isn’t considered the absolute top name in the beauty world.

I’m a huge fan of Go-To Skincare! They’ve really hit that sweet spot – offering high-quality products that feel luxurious without the super high price tag. Everyone’s been raving about them, and for good reason! I’ve personally seen a big difference in my skin with their The Removalist clay mask – it leaves it looking so much clearer and brighter. That said, you’ll always find *some* people who aren’t fans, but honestly, I think they’re amazing.

Consider Foster Blake, who previously claimed eye creams didn’t work, but then launched his own eye serum through Go-To. There have also been reports of customers being blocked on Instagram after voicing their concerns.

Lots of people enjoy Go-To skincare! However, one beauty editor described it as being similar to Priceline products sold at Mecca prices.

Miranda Kerr is definitely a well-known celebrity. However, her skincare brand, KORA Organics, isn’t quite as prominent in the beauty world – it’s more of a rising star than an established leader.

KORA Organics began in 2009 as a leading brand in certified organic skincare, inspired by Miranda Kerr’s passion for healthy living and wellness.

The brand gained a dedicated following quickly, with products like the Noni Glow Face Oil becoming popular. It even caught the attention of Katy Perry, who praised it while she was with Orlando Bloom.

High praise indeed. 

And how could we forget Melanie Grant?

Grant is a leading skin health expert, known worldwide as a facialist to celebrities like Nicole Kidman, Lara Bingle, and Victoria Beckham. He’s also the author of the popular book, *The Modern Guide to Skin Health*.

Melanie launched her business with a clinic in Double Bay in 2012, and later expanded to cities including Melbourne, Los Angeles, New York, and London.

Melanie isn’t as widely known as some of Australia’s biggest celebrities, but she’s still a highly respected and popular beauty expert – her services are just quite expensive.

Next up are Katelin Gregg and Ella James.

The young, attractive, and thriving founders of Fayshell, an exclusive skincare clinic in Sydney’s eastern suburbs, seem destined for celebrity status.

They opened their first store in Bondi Junction in 2022, and another in Neutral Bay the following year. However, a recent disagreement between the two has caused the value of their company to decrease.

Sources say there was a clear difference in vision between Katelin and Ella. Katelin, the daughter of Mondeal Aesthetics founder Rob Gregg, always saw herself leading the company, while Ella focused on the creative side.

Oh my gosh, you will NOT believe this! Katelin totally won the fight for control, and now Fayshell is officially *her* thing! It’s a solo project now, all Katelin, all the time! I knew she was the true star, and now everyone else will too!

‘It feels very high school,’ was how a rival clinic owner put it to us.

People were excited about the concept of a salon run by two best friends, but the reality of it isn’t quite as appealing.

THE C-LIST

Now let’s look at the C-list – a group including rising talents, people trying to make it big online, and celebrities who were once more famous.

Let’s begin with Max May, a makeup artist who’s worked with well-known local personalities such as Lara Worthington and Jackie ‘O’ Henderson.

Max’s photography has appeared in leading fashion magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, Elle Japan, and Grazia.

He wasn’t included among the top names, likely because he’s strongly associated with Sydney and is managed by publicist Roxy Jacenko.

We’re also keeping an eye on Elle Ferguson, an influencer and the founder of the popular self-tanning brand, ELEFFECT.

ELEFFECT, which began in 2018, rapidly became well-known, boosted by Elle’s strong social media following. You can find it online and at certain stores, like Mecca.

This brand focuses on gentle, plant-based formulas that are kind to your skin. What makes them special is their use of genuine rose oil for fragrance, unlike many other products.

People love this self-tanner if you prefer a scent that isn’t coconut, but it’s still a smaller brand compared to popular options like Bondi Sands and St. Tropez.

Elle is joined on the C-list by sisters Bianca and Bridgett Roccisano, who founded the Booby Tape company in 2018.

As a lifestyle expert, I’m always thrilled to see innovative solutions for everyday needs! I recently came across a fantastic product created by two women originally from rural Victoria. They’ve invented what they call a ‘breast lift in a box’ – essentially, it’s body tape designed to give you support and lift without needing a bra. It’s a clever and comfortable alternative for anyone looking for that extra boost and freedom!

By 2023, Booby Tape was available in over 20,000 stores worldwide, across more than 40 countries. You could find it at popular retailers such as Boots in the UK and David Jones in Australia.

Mia Plecic is another influencer who lands in our C tier. She’s found success with her Slick Stick, a tool that helps smooth flyaway hairs.

This product, which debuted in 2019, quickly became popular thanks to its innovative design and how well it worked. It went viral, especially on TikTok, where one post led to $40,000 in sales in a single night.

In just half a year, Mia’s company reached $1 million in sales. They now offer a variety of products, including wax sticks, smoothing brushes, and anti-flyaway gels.

Next up is Napoleon Perdis, once the godfather of Aussie glam, now an also-ran.

Napoleon was a leading makeup artist and business owner who significantly influenced Australia’s beauty industry. He founded his well-known brand in the 1990s and early 2000s, helping to define the look of the era.

This brand used to be a common sight in department stores and became popular by consistently releasing new products and partnering with celebrities.

Napoleon’s power has recently declined, and he’s no longer considered one of the most important figures.

In 2019, the company faced financial difficulties and went into administration with over $22 million in debt. It was then purchased by KUBA Investments.

As of 2024, Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics still has 25 stores open in Australia, and their products are also sold through various independent retailers.

Honestly, it really breaks my heart to see what it’s become. It’s just not the same as it once was, and so much has contributed to its decline. But looking back, I think a big turning point was when they expanded so rapidly in the US, right before the financial crisis hit. It felt like a huge risk at the time, and unfortunately, it didn’t pay off.

Heiress Georgia Geminder continues our C-list with her natural toothpaste brand Gem Oral Care. 

Georgia Pratt, whose grandfather Richard Pratt was the founder of Visy and whose uncle Anthony Pratt now leads the company, started her own business in 2020.

Gem toothpaste uses hydroxyapatite – a natural ingredient made from coconuts – instead of fluoride. It’s designed for people, especially younger customers, who want toothpaste made with ingredients they feel are safe and healthy.

The brand has grown quickly, selling over 160,000 products and now available in over 700 stores, including Mecca. They’ve recently added new items to their range, such as sunscreen, deodorant, and fragrance.

No C-list would be complete without the inclusion of Double Bay ‘eyebrow queen’ Kristin Fisher.

In 2017, she opened her own salon, and it soon became known for amazing eyebrow shaping and high-quality beauty services.

I’ve been following Kristin for a while now, and it’s amazing to see how she’s built her business! She’s incredibly talented with brow artistry, and she’s really leveraged that skill online. What started as a small boutique has become a full-blown beauty brand – she not only sells her products, but she also teaches others who want to become brow artists themselves. It’s truly inspiring!

Kristin is usually near the bottom for three key reasons, and there’s always a catch with her.

In 2021, she drew attention to the issue of cocaine use in the eastern suburbs. This came after a magistrate overturned her drug possession conviction and noted how often similar cases were appearing in court.

Magistrate Ross Hudson firmly stated that claiming cocaine use is normal or acceptable in society is simply not true.

‘It is a criminal, illegal drug. It is a stain on our community.’ 

In 2023, her clinic was on the verge of financial ruin, but she managed to avoid it by reaching an agreement with the Australian Taxation Office. They accepted less than $100,000 to settle a debt of $915,000.

She celebrated by popping a $600 bottle of champagne.

She recently had a disagreement with Shelley Sullivan, a major figure in the beauty world. As one beauty editor jokingly warned, ‘You don’t want to cross Shelley!’

We’ll finish off our list with a rising star, Natassia Nicolao.

At 33, this biochemist created Conserving Beauty, Australia’s first skincare line that doesn’t use water, and Forbes recognizes her as a rising success.

Since launching in 2021, the brand has been recognized for its commitment to sustainability and its efforts to reduce the beauty industry’s use of limited natural resources.

Conserving boasts an impressive board of directors, composed entirely of women, including model Elle Macpherson and several leading figures in the tech industry.

Natassia faced doubts at the beginning of her journey. People told her it would be difficult to get funding as a young woman starting a beauty company, but her brand has proven them wrong, attracting investment from two funds focused on positive impact. It just goes to show that customers value sustainable products!

It’s also a big advantage that her father knows Christopher Lucas, a leading figure in Melbourne’s restaurant scene and head of the Lucas Group – a useful connection when establishing a new brand.

According to a source familiar with the company, Natassia is very private about financial details like investments and revenue, and hasn’t shared them with the media despite repeated requests.

Despite the challenges, Natassia is successfully expanding her business internationally. She’s established Conserving Beauty as a leader in eco-friendly beauty, proving her approach is effective.

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2025-09-19 18:25