The 2025 Met Gala Theme Honors Black Dandyism. We’re Already Missing the Point

As a Black fashion enthusiast who has always admired the unique and powerful style expressions of Black people throughout history, I am thrilled about this year’s Met Gala theme: Black Dandyism. It’s long overdue for our culture to be celebrated in such a significant way by an esteemed institution like the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

As a cinephile who’s always on the lookout for intriguing themes, I can’t help but feel a mix of excitement and apprehension upon hearing about the 2025 Met Gala’s chosen theme: “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”. This event, jointly organized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Vogue, is inspired by scholar Monica L. Miller’s groundbreaking work, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” It’s a theme that promises to delve deep into the rich world of black fashion and identity, but also one that carries the weight of expectation and representation.

Prominently on everyone’s thoughts was André Leon Talley. This esteemed fashion editor, celebrated for his groundbreaking career in fashion, symbolized the style and essence of the Black Dandy. In response to Vogue‘s Instagram post regarding the announcement, numerous social media users viewed the theme as a homage to him. Additionally, some mentioned Dapper Dan, the iconic Harlem fashion designer, who bridged the gap between hip-hop and high fashion through his bespoke designs, as another representation of Black Dandyism.

Although not every user showed enthusiasm, some criticism was also visible. On Diet Prada’s Instagram post about the Met Gala announcement, calls for The Kardashians to be excluded and expressions of discontent over the absence of a female co-chair were noticeable. In an article for The New York Post, one user lamented, “It’s unfortunate that there will be limited representation of African American fashion houses at the event.

Over the past few years, there’s been a growing focus on showcasing African-American fashion within cultural institutions across the U.S. Exhibitions like “Africa Fashion” at the Brooklyn Museum in 2023 and “Africa’s Fashion Diaspora” at the Fashion Institute of Technology are part of this trend, as museums work to broaden their exhibits. The push for diversity started during the summer of 2020 following the death of George Floyd. Andrew Bolton, curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, spearheaded this initiative with “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” which marks the museum’s initial step towards implementing these changes.

Miller sees Black Dandyism as a method and resource for redefining personal identity and exploring new perspectives. It was particularly significant during times of enslavement, serving to challenge and expand societal norms about who or what is considered human.

The essence of being an Agency, Autonomy, and Choice is deeply embedded in the identity of the Black Dandy. Tracing its roots back to slavery may seem contradictory, but it also symbolized a rebellion against the loss of personal choice. Typically, their attire was chosen by their enslavers, disregarding their preferences for self-expression. However, as Miller points out, through their style, posture, and humor, Black Dandies managed to assert themselves in society. This was a form of self-creation, using clothing and fashion as tools to define themselves.

As a passionate admirer, I’d say: “Black Dandyism, for me, represents a rebellion against society’s conventional expectations of how Black men should dress. Cam Newton embodies this spirit at its zenith. Men like him, who are strong, athletic, and often embody the ideal of masculine excellence, should challenge those preconceived norms.” I also admire Young Thug as a prime representative of Black Dandyism. In 2016, he made waves by wearing an Alessandro Trincone dress on the cover of his mixtape, JEFFREY, defying societal expectations in a bold and stylish way.

Kim Russell, a stylist, fashion historian, and critic based in Perth, has cited Dennis Rodman as another instance of Black Dandyism. In a recent Instagram post, she expressed that while Rodman represents modernity, there are still boundaries and pressing issues concerning racism, sexuality, and self-expression regarding African American men in sports. She emphasized that Rodman consistently challenges the way we view a Black man in sports.

Understanding the theme of the 2025 Met Gala is crucial because it not only reveals what the institution aims to accomplish with it, but also sheds light on their perspective. This year’s display is significant as it marks the first menswear-oriented exhibition since 2003’s “Men Wearing Skirts.” Moreover, this is the inaugural Met exhibition exclusively focused on race.

As a passionate film enthusiast, I find this exhibit exhilarating because it stirs up an essential and contemporary dialogue. In my opinion, discussing the intricate history and subtleties of Black fashion, particularly in America, is crucial. Just as with any other form of fashion, Black individuals have been instrumental in establishing trends, dictating the fashion calendar, and ultimately shaping what eventually becomes mainstream. We possess a diverse spectrum of aesthetics.

Previously recognized as The Lingerie Expert, Harrington explains that this exhibition, unlike extensively studied fashion and social movements of the Civil Rights and Black Power era during the 1960s and 1970s, is providing a platform for lesser-known Black fashion instances such as Blacky Dandyism to be recognized.

However, due to the precise nature of the exhibition, there has been apprehension about potential cultural misappropriation, as some are worried that non-Black visitors may misinterpret the theme inappropriately.

Harrington states, “I certainly don’t mean to diminish anything because we’re discussing the Met, but when we consider the scarcity of Black curators, museum officials, and individuals in powerful roles at culturally significant institutions like the Met and the Met Costume Institute – a globally renowned fashion museum – it’s incredibly impactful and exhilarating that the curator for this exhibition is a Black woman. At the very least, we should rally behind her and the work she has been doing.

In the midst of the cultural appropriation debate, it’s crucial not to overlook the recognition and eternalization of a Black woman’s scholarly legacy. I can’t help but express my enthusiasm upon learning that Black scholar Jonathan Michael Square has been appointed to this year’s exhibition committee. His groundbreaking digital humanities project, “Fashioning the Self in Slavery and Freedom“, delves into the intricate connections between slavery and fashion, a subject that truly resonates with me.

From any perspective you choose to view it, the Black Dandy is more than just a representation of identity; it’s also a test. To truly embody the 2025 Met Gala theme, one must delve deep and not only examine their own identity, but also question the systems that shape us.

As I reflect upon this year’s Met Gala, I can’t help but wonder if it is carving out a fresh, modern identity, one that embraces progress and looks toward the future with its ideals. Or will it falter like numerous other institutions that pledged change following the worldwide upheavals of 2020? Can stars challenge the system that grants them influence? Can an esteemed American institution truly transform?

From my perspective, the Black Dandy embodies a complex and intriguing identity. Standing at the junction where many paths converge, it’s about defining oneself amidst the gaze of others. A title that sets the stage for how they engage with the world. At times, a well-tailored suit can lay the foundation for an impressive introduction.

I’m leaning towards Harrington’s advice for this year’s Met Gala – he suggests we should emphasize tailoring, suits, and structured silhouettes. In contrast, Carlton recommends that the ladies consider dressing like a dandizette, a female equivalent of a dandy. This style icon is known for her pink shoes, white dresses, and gloves.

Regardless of which designer they chose (although, it would be appropriate to work with a Black designer and/or stylist for the Met Gala 2025), the theme of the Black Dandy is meant to be a call to action through dress to test every aspect of their identity.

Though it remains to be seen if Hollywood’s elite will be up for the challenge.

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2024-10-24 21:06