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Rick Owens SS26 Is a Theatrical Retrospective

BBG News

Summary

  • Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2026 show at Paris Fashion Week served as a visceral, theatrical preview to his “Temple of Love” retrospective now open at the Musée Palais Galliera
  • Breaking runway conventions, models walked an elevated catwalk over the Palais de Tokyo’s fountain
  • Owens’ signature blend of “European sophistication through American bluntness,” with designs showcasing exposed flesh in black leather, studded straps, slashed Tuscan leathers, voluminous flight jackets, and “Burrito Sneaks” were showcased this season

Rick Owens, known as fashion’s foremost proponent of brutalist sophistication, unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Paris Fashion Week, not just a display but a powerful, dramatic foreshadowing of his upcoming retrospective exhibition, “Temple of Love.” Held at the iconic Palais de Tokyo, the show metamorphosed the location into a vibrant, immersive tribute to his timeless artistic ideals.

Instead of the usual seated setup on a runway, Owens arranged for everyone to stand around the grand fountain at the Palais, creating an intimate gathering. This unique configuration established an atmosphere of shared excitement right from the start. As the show commenced, models walked out onto a raised platform, creating a catwalk suspended above the calm waters. Their journey across this dramatic stage demonstrated Owens’ expertise in balancing tension and movement.

As the models gracefully descended into the fountain, the main event unfolded. Some paused for a brief moment, immersing themselves in the refreshing water, causing their outfits to briefly mold to their bodies before they reemerged, wet and continuing their walk. This bold act of immersion symbolized more than just a striking visual effect; it conveyed a powerful message. It hinted at purification, renewal, and a daring acceptance of vulnerability – themes that are deeply rooted in Owens’ work. The damp fabric clinging to the models accentuated the raw, almost sculptural aspect of his designs, bringing into focus the interplay between garment and body in a primal manner.

The bold performance served as a tangible, real-time sneak peek into the “Temple of Love” retrospective. It underscored Owens’ knack for seamlessly blending performance art with fashion, utilizing his shows as profound expressions delving into themes such as rebirth, resilience, and an almost sacred appreciation of the human form in all its imperfect beauty. With a focus on finality, Owens’ designs exude a “European aesthetic refinement through American rawness,” evident in the exposed skin peeking through black leather openings. Straps adorned with studs, reminiscent of neoclassical nymphs, embellish pieces alongside heavy Tuscan leathers that are slashed and fringed. Oversized flight jackets and parkas, made from sustainable Italian nylon or silk taffeta, complement “Burrito Sneaks.” Notable collaborations include jackets inspired by the New York punk band Suicide and reissued knits from 2002 by Terry-Ann Frencken, resulting in a deeply personal and powerful collection.

Rick Owens’ retrospective is now open at the Musée Palais Galliera.

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2025-06-27 11:25

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