Movies

Nonnas

BBG News

From the Staten Island ferry dock in New York City’s borough of Staten Island, with a stunning view of lower Manhattan’s skyline, you’ll find Enoteca Maria – a cozy 35-seat eatery where the kitchen staff are grandmothers hailing from various parts of the world.

The eatery has become the focus of the upcoming Netflix film titled “Nonnas”, set for release on May 9th. In this movie, Vince Vaughn portrays Jody “Joe” Scaravella, a 69-year-old founder who launched the restaurant in 2007 as a tribute to the Italian women who sparked his passion for cooking – his grandmother Domenica and mother Maria, whom the establishment is named after. The film depicts Scaravella’s transformation from a transportation worker into a restaurateur, with senior actresses Susan Sarandon, Talia Shire, Lorraine Bracco, and Brenda Vaccaro playing the roles of the female chefs.

TIME recently visited the authentic Enoteca Maria to converse with owner Scaravella over an espresso. With grey curly hair, tiny wire-rimmed glasses, and a t-shirt displaying Gene Wilder from “Young Frankenstein” with the words “I’m Alive!”, he would occasionally pause our conversation to accept deliveries of mozzarella and branzino. The restaurant is adorned with superhero figures like Batman and Spiderman hanging from the ceiling, but Scaravella emphasizes that the true superheroes in the kitchen are the grandmothers. A portrait of Domenica, Maria, and his sister Mariana proudly hangs on a wall.

He explains, “Although it appears, smells, and sounds like a traditional restaurant, this isn’t your typical eatery. It’s actually a venue for cultural exchange.” Enoteca Maria started as an Italian restaurant initially, but its menu has evolved over time by welcoming grandmothers from various regions to share their unique family recipes. During TIME’s visit in May, they were preparing to serve Mexican, Uzbek, and Greek dishes all within the same weekend.

According to Scaravella, the grandmothers are using the skills passed down from their mothers and grandmothers, and whenever they’re in the kitchen, a rich cultural tradition seems to flow effortlessly through them.

In an interview with Scaravella, TIME delved into the history of the eatery, highlighted the genuine women behind its inception, and discussed why grandmothers excel and struggle as culinary masters within the restaurant setting.

How grandmothers became chefs at Enoteca Maria

Born and raised in Brooklyn, Scaravella spent half a century living on his childhood street. Tragically, he lost his grandfather, father, mother, grandmother, and sister one after another, leaving him heartbroken. Using the funds he received from their estates, he considered purchasing waterfront real estate. His search led him to Staten Island, the borough of New York City that can be reached by both ferry and car, and also has its own subway system.

He developed a strong affection for a Dutch colonial home conveniently near the Staten Island Ferry station, which led him to embark on a fresh chapter of life there. During a stroll one day, he chanced upon an empty storefront right beside the St. George Theatre, and he made up his mind to purchase it and establish a restaurant as a tribute to his beloved mother Maria.

Initially, he juggled two careers while trying to establish Enoteca Maria, frequently relying on others to stand in for him at his position with the Metropolitan Transportation Authority as depicted in the movie.

To pay tribute to his grandmother Domenica, who was an accomplished home cook from Sicily, Scaravella considered hiring elderly women, similar to grandmothers, for culinary duties. Domenica lived until a few months before her 100th birthday and had a lively spirit that Scaravella fondly remembers. As a child, he watched her prepare meals and select ingredients in the local Brooklyn market. At this market, if Domenica didn’t approve of a plum, she would spit it out on the ground without hesitation. No one dared to question her actions because they understood that anything left on the floor was considered hers, as Scaravella recalls.

Advertisement by Scaravella sought genuine grandmothers worldwide to cook at his eatery. The overwhelming response resulted in a constantly changing roster of culinary experts at Enoteca Maria.

As a cinephile of all things culinary, I’ve always been captivated by the diverse flavors and traditions that global cuisine offers. Enoteca Maria, a unique eatery in my book, not only presents an array of delicious dishes from various nations but also extends an exceptional opportunity – free one-on-one cooking classes led by grandmothers! It’s a priceless experience that allows me to learn and preserve these valuable recipes. My ultimate dream is to establish an online community where fellow food enthusiasts can share their treasured family recipes, creating a global cookbook that celebrates the rich tapestry of culinary heritage we all cherish.

While creating the movie and establishing a Facebook group are certainly steps taken for Enoteca Maria, it seems that technology-wise, the restaurant itself remains somewhat traditional. For those eager to dine at Enoteca Maria, the old-fashioned method of phone calls is still the way to make a reservation. It appears that Signor Scaravella prefers to steer clear of reservation apps like Resy or OpenTable and has no intentions of offering a grandma delivery service through platforms such as UberEats or DoorDash.

He remarks that food gradually loses some of its essence with each passing moment spent inside a container,” he states. “It’s not about accumulating money, but rather pursuing a vision or dream.

Dishing about the real women who inspired Nonnas

The character, Nonna, mirrors the real-life Italian chefs that contributed to the establishment of the restaurant. In the movie, these characters are dramatized yet drawn from the vibrant females who have influenced Scaravella’s life.

Susan Sarandon portrays Gia, a hairdresser who looked after Scaravella’s mother during her cancer battle and is subsequently enlisted by Scaravella due to her exceptional baking skills. Talia Shire takes on the role of Teresa, a nun who departed from the convent following a romantic encounter with another woman. Lorraine Bracco embodies Roberta, a friend of Scaravella’s mom, who finds joy in working at Enoteca Maria as a refreshing change from life in a senior home. Similarly, Brenda Vaccaro assumes the character of Antonella, a widow rediscovering her passion for life through her work at the restaurant after learning about Scaravella’s job opening from her young neighbor Olivia (Linda Cardellini).

Three of the founding grandmothers who were present in the kitchen when Enoteca Maria initially opened are highlighted in Scaravella’s cookbook titled “Nonna’s House“. This book showcases various grandmothers who have prepared dishes at the restaurant throughout the years.

Carmelina Pica, the fourth-born of 14 siblings, toiled in a sewing factory and crafted delectable appetizers for an Italian market on Staten Island. Her creations, such as stuffed pepper slices and seafood salad, were so popular that they made the store a must-visit destination for families residing on Staten Island. She was present at the premiere of Nonnas on April 30.

Born in a small town near Naples’ periphery, Adelina Orazzo was betrothed at the tender age of 13. Unfortunately, her marriage didn’t last, but much like her character in Nonnas, she discovered renewed meaning when her niece spotted an ad by Scaravella for cooks and granted her creative freedom in the kitchen.

In her youth, Teresa Scalici resided with her grandmother in Sicily, a period known for her delicious cookie-making skills. Later, she raised her family on Staten Island and, at the age of 60, began working for Scaravella. Frequently, she would carry around a collection of recipes compiled by her very own grandmother.

At Enoteca Maria, the grandmas’ lives were given purpose, yet occasional disputes arose in the kitchen. In the TV show Nonnas, Antonella and Roberta often clash, engaging in heated arguments over who hails from the superior Italian region when it comes to cuisine. It is indeed correct that disagreements have occurred within the Enoteca Maria kitchen. As Scaravella explains, “I’ve even witnessed a frying pan thrown.” Among the original cooks, Adelina and Teresa didn’t see eye-to-eye, particularly when one outperformed the other in cooking.

In the movie, the character Joe struggles relentlessly throughout the story to replicate his grandmother’s signature Sunday Gravy, as it was prepared in a manner that would not meet health department standards – something like her long-simmered sauce would not be acceptable according to the regulations. However, while the exact recipe may have been modified, a version of his grandmother’s beloved dish occasionally surfaces on the menu.

In the film, there’s a spark between Joe and Olivia, the neighbor who motivated Antonella to join Scaravella’s kitchen. Over time, Scaravella has dated women he met through the restaurant, and his present companion is Yumi Komatsudaira, one of Enoteca Maria’s rotating chefs who specializes in Japanese cuisine.

In the movie, a pivotal moment showcases Teresa from Shire’s character kneeling down and petitioning for a successful inspection to let their restaurant reopen. Interestingly enough, one of my friends – not one of the original chefs – actually knelt down and pleaded to the renowned priest Padre Pio for customers to arrive. Soon after this heartfelt prayer, people began to stream into the restaurant. Intriguingly, a portrait of Padre Pio is indeed displayed in the real-life eatery.

Read More

2025-05-09 16:07

Previous post Near-perfect “savagely brutal” horror movie The Ugly Stepsister is now available to watch at home
Next post Grey’s Anatomy recap: What you’re looking for