Next Time, Keith McNally Says He’s Only Going to Write About Dead People

Keith McNally, known as the “Restaurateur Who Invented Downtown” by The New York Times, is more than just that title suggests. In fact, McNally dislikes being referred to as a “restaurateur.” He began his career in 1975, working as a busboy at Serendipity in Manhattan and shucking oysters at One Fifth. Five years later, he opened The Odeon, which was the first of many renowned restaurants that shaped the downtown dining scene. McNally is not only a restaurant owner but also a director whose debut thriller premiered at Cannes in 1990, a former West End actor who starred in Alan Bennett’s “Forty Years On,” a father of five, and a recent sensation on social media.

McNally’s latest memoir, titled “I Regret Almost Everything“, is not a glossy overview of his life. Instead, it delves deeply into his mistakes and regrets, as well as juicy anecdotes. With a career steeped in intrigue, McNally is no stranger to sharing stories, and the tales from his memoir are as tantalizing as dishes at Pastis. He openly discusses a long-term affair with Bennett, suggests another affair with a famous Hollywood actress he calls “X”, and admits that he regrets calling James Corden a “small, insignificant man” after an incident involving the actor’s misbehavior during brunch at Balthazar.

The major part of the book revolves around recovery. In the year 2018, exactly two years after he had a severe stroke that restricted his mobility and speech, McNally decided to end his life. He amassed sleeping pills during a family vacation on Martha’s Vineyard, locked himself in his bedroom, and took them. However, George, his son, found him unconscious hours later through a window after discovering him.

Over the past seven years, McNally has steered his way through recovery and faced the challenges posed by the pandemic and its detrimental effects on the restaurant sector. He reopened Pastis in 2019, shut down Lucky Strike and Augustine in 2020, and launched a Minetta Tavern branch in Washington D.C. last year. He took to Instagram in 2020, stirring up a bit of digital controversy along the way. Additionally, he authored this book, which he considers his motivation for living after surviving his suicide attempt.

He recently corresponded with TIME magazine via email, discussing various aspects of his life over the past ten years, including the lessons he’s learned from his errors, and the attention-grabbing style he employs on Instagram.

From the East End of London to Istanbul to Cannes to Soho, your life has been so full and busy. How did you write this memoir?

Visiting numerous destinations does not guarantee a rich or fulfilling life; quite the contrary, it can sometimes have the opposite effect. A friend whom I greatly respect once remarked, ‘Travel restricts one’s thinking.’ In my view, this is frequently accurate.

2016 saw me experience a stroke which impaired my voice and caused paralysis on my right side. Nine months of physical therapy yielded minimal progress. Overwhelmed by despair, I contemplated taking my own life. Admitted into a psychiatric hospital for nine weeks, I yearned for a purpose to keep going. The act of writing this book served as that purpose.

Did you consult journals, or old mementos?

Luckily, I’ve always been a compulsive note-taker. Surprisingly, these notes didn’t help much.

What was that process like?

Ninety percent frustrating, ten percent euphoric.

What was the riskiest part of the book?

As a seasoned film critic, penning my thoughts has always been a struggle due to my unfamiliarity with Microsoft Word. Out of sheer naivety, I’ve penned each chapter on Gmail, only to find myself losing an entire page about once a month – a predicament that’s left me in a state of constant fear for the past six years, lest I should lose my entire book.

What does your family think of your memoir?

As a film enthusiast, I often find myself discussing movies with my two eldest daughters, Sophie and Isabelle. My other three children appear to appreciate films, but they’re not as eager to delve into in-depth conversations about them – a sign of their maturity, I suppose. Neither my brother nor sister have shown interest in discussing cinema lately, but that’s alright. It could always be worse. Alina, my second wife, who plays a significant role in the book, might take legal action against me once she reads it. In my upcoming book, I aim to focus exclusively on characters who have passed away.

Did anyone get to read it ahead of print?

Occasionally, I’d share some of my work, specifically certain chapters, with a few close friends. However, it was quite nerve-wracking. If I emailed them two chapters at ten in the morning and hadn’t heard back by 10:15, I’d start to feel anxious and even consider giving them a gentle nudge.

In 2017 “Ava Meadows” wrongfully sued you for sexual harassment. Why did you choose to open up about this lawsuit?

Because by not talking about a false accusation one emboldens both the lie and the accuser.

You write about feeling such a strong sense of shame after your stroke. How have you overcome that?

Not entirely, I’m afraid.

You also write so freely about “wrong instincts” and deals gone bad. Why is it important to you to be frank and have a sense of humor about your mistakes?

I find the saying ‘trust your instinct’ somewhat problematic. After all, instinct isn’t infallible, and its definition can be vague. If one considers instinct as the antithesis of reason and logic, then it may not be as reliable or praiseworthy as commonly believed.

Surely it’s more important to question the things we take for granted than the things we don’t. Who says experts are always right? Who says only weak people change their mind?

Sometimes, it’s just as crucial to be unaware as it is to be aware, and being firm in one’s beliefs doesn’t always equate to a robust personality.

It’s hard to admire individuals who claim they have no regrets in life. After all, making errors is an essential aspect of living. Failing to learn from those mistakes is just as common. Those who boast about never making a mistake often end up making more. Consider Donald Trump as an example.

You write that in the Western world, health is more often than not a business. Can you talk about the importance of accessible healthcare, especially in the aftermath of the pandemic.

Having access to good free healthcare should be the inalienable right of everyone on the planet.

Have celebrities been on better behavior since the James Corden incident?

In my restaurants, certainly!

What is the secret to Instagram?

Five years back, Instagram was unfamiliar territory for me. To this day, I’m baffled by creating an ‘Instagram Story’. It seems about 90% of the content is nonsense. Maybe that’s why scammers like myself find it a fertile ground.

Tell us about the tradition of posting notes from restaurant patrons who write to you on postcards? How did this get started? How can someone get their note on your Instagram?

The mystery remains unsolved for me as to when or why it began, but it appears that around a month into my Instagram activity, this phenomenon started. Mostly, customers send compliments on postcards, yet it’s the insulting ones that grab my attention more. Intriguingly, I tend to share the witty and legible insulting cards over the complimentary ones.

What was the most unreliable part of Graydon Carter’s memoir?

Let me rephrase that for you: The statement he made was simply a joke. I genuinely enjoyed Graydon’s memoir, particularly the initial phases before his success.

Who are you planning on voting for in the primary mayoral election?

Not certain, but probably former governor, Andrew Cuomo.

What’s the best time for a dinner reservation?

When you’re in love.

What’s the future of outdoor dining?

In NYC? Not great under Mayor Eric Adams.

What’s your biggest menu pet peeve?

Either the word ‘fresh’ or the phrase ‘farm to table’.

What are your thoughts on truffles?

Quite like them, but don’t understand the fuss about them. Absolutely hate truffle oil.

What is one attribute you’re always looking for when hiring someone?

Someone who understands the importance of listening.

What’s the perfect Balthazar order?

To start off, I’d choose the Escargots served in garlic butter. For the main meal, I’ll opt for the Free-Range Chicken for Two, which comes with Cipollini onions, spinach, and mashed potatoes. I’d pair this with a glass of my preferred burgundy wine, Gevrey-Chambertin.

Best slice of pizza NY?

Luigi’s Pizza in Park Slope.

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2025-05-06 01:06

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