As a longtime friend and director of Liza Colón-Zayas, I’ve had the privilege of witnessing her compelling performances firsthand. Her ability to push for truth and draw from a deep well of lived experience makes her acting seem less like a crafted performance and more like a raw, authentic expression of emotion.
In my experience as a moviegoer, I didn’t find myself on the edge of my seat when I visited Mofongos, a cozy North Hollywood restaurant run by a Puerto Rican family. On a lovely June afternoon, I strolled in, and the vibrant colors and warm atmosphere instantly made me want to sway to Ángel Canales’ “Sabor, los Rumberos Nuevos” playing in the background. The song greeted me with an irresistible rhythm that tapped my feet as soon as I entered.
When arranging our get-together, she made a specific request: she wanted us to check out a local business similar to the one showcased in “The Bear,” the popular FX series that depicts the chaotic world of a Chicago sandwich shop transforming into a high-end restaurant. The third season of this acclaimed series is about to be released, and it’s now available on Hulu. The Nuyorican actress, who portrays no-nonsense cook Tina Marrero in the show, has not yet visited this place but offers expert advice on their dishes to a newcomer during filming.
“Do you enjoy pork?” she asks. “If so, you might also appreciate dishes like arroz con gandules – that’s yellow rice with sofrito and pigeon peas. And then there’s mofongo, made from mashed plantains combined with crispy pork rinds. We stuff these in a mortar, called a pilon, and add your choice of filling – shrimp, chicken, or pork – along with a savory sauce.”
As a movie critic, I’ve had the pleasure of observing the petite Colón-Zayas, standing at barely over 5 feet tall, during our interview session. Seated across from me at this quaint table, adorned with an evocative photograph of Puerto Rican baseball legend Roberto Clemente, her diminutive stature seemed even more pronounced.
Having spent nearly three decades in her acting career, Colón-Zayas is a seasoned Off Broadway performer. She’s appeared on various TV shows and films throughout the years, taking on both smaller roles and those showcasing her versatility. However, it was “The Bear” on FX that truly gained recognition, earning numerous awards and living up to the acclaim.
As a devoted moviegoer, I’ve observed my favorite character, Tina, take a back seat for two exciting seasons. Though she was an integral part of the story, her potential hadn’t fully bubbled up yet. With the passing of Mikey Berzatto, the charismatic owner of Original Beef of Chicagoland, a new leadership took over. Tension filled the air as I watched Tina dig her heels in, unwilling to follow the commands of the young, inexperienced bosses. However, with time, she began to see the possibilities of transformation and even signed up for culinary school last season, eventually earning the prestigious title of sous chef.
As I watched Colón-Zayas on screen, I could relate to her character’s protective stance. It felt like she was guarding her territory, warning, “You’re entering my world now.” This wasn’t merely a job for her; it was a family affair. The closure of traditional restaurants around us added to her uncertainty about the changes Carmy was pushing for. And to make matters worse, we had recently lost a cherished member of our team, Mikey.
In the third season, Tina comes into focus. And so does Colón-Zayas.
In Episode 6, titled “Napkins,” we go back five years in time to when the clever and sarcastic working mother was trying to expand her cooking skills. With mounting financial pressures following a rent hike, Tina loses her job as payroll manager at a bakery. Her husband, portrayed by David Zayas (of “Dexter” fame), is a doorman who’s yet to receive his long-awaited promotion. Feeling embarrassed, anxious about money, and carrying stacks of resumes, Tina bravely knocks on doors every day in search of employment, but faces apathy or flat-out refusals.
Colón-Zayas was pleasantly surprised by Tina’s respectability, as he only gave her a background as a New York transplant. Initially, Tina came across as tough and edgy, but audiences learned she was also a loving mother with a 9-to-5 job, working-class stability, and a devoted marriage. An unexpected side of her life emerged – one filled with peace and normality.
In a pivotal scene of the episode, directed by Ayo Edebiri (actress portraying Sydney Adamu), Tina enters the show’s main sandwich shop after an unproductive day of job hunting. The atmosphere intensifies with heightened sound and elegance. Despite merely requesting a coffee, she is unexpectedly gifted an Italian beef sandwich by the lively yet compassionate staff.
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1. Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) at the Beef. (FX) 2. Liza Colon-Zayas as Tina with her husband, David Zayas. (FX)
At a secluded table, she comes to terms with her circumstances, weeping over her meal. Upon noticing her distress, Mikey approaches, sparking an emotional exchange between them. Their discussion touched upon the divide between those who pursue their dreams and those merely striving to get by. The poignant interaction concluded with him extending a job offer to her. The scene was filmed over two consecutive days.
As a devoted film enthusiast, I can relate to Edebiri’s desire to transport viewers back to the initial season through her direction. I aimed to recreate that signature chaos and cacophony we all remember, while highlighting Colón-Zayas’ exceptional acting skills, allowing audiences to truly appreciate his artistry once more.
“Liza’s small stature is just one of her many wondrous qualities, notes Edebiri. She conveys so much with her expressive face and welcoming demeanor. Meanwhile, Tina has been through a grueling process of rejection, filled with shock and demoralization. Yet in this unexpectedly chaotic environment, she discovers comfort.”
In this scene, we get a clearer understanding of Mikey’s relationship with the staff and the impact of his absence, which has been hinted at earlier in the series.
As a movie critic, I’d put it this way: “Mikey is a character full of complexity and depth. He presents us with various layers – a tough exterior concealing a damaged past, yet he is capable of immense love. This complexities elicited strong reactions from the audience. Tina plays a significant role in bringing out Mikey’s nuances, making her an integral part of the story.”
It gets Colón-Zayas thinking of her own journey to this point in her career.
“I was planning to flee. I would hail a taxi and seize control because I could play the tambourine far more skillfully. However, my older brother found the letter and read it aloud, making fun of me, leaving me embarrassed. The letter was never sent.” Instead, she discovered other means to refine her talents: she began impersonating Erica Kane, Susan Lucci’s character on “All My Children,” for her mother’s visitors upon request.
Discussing her past aspirations brings forth various feelings. At the age of 16, she became a member of the Church of Bible Understanding, a questionable religious organization. When its members reached out to her on Fordham Road in the Bronx, her domestic circumstances were less than ideal. “They came across as incredibly compassionate,” she recalls.
Speaking about the organization, she labeled it as having cult-like tendencies, implying that members were encouraged to sever ties with outsiders and harbor suspicion towards non-members. At the age of 18, she was relocated to Philadelphia, not far from where the group originated. Upon arrival, she underwent a church program and simultaneously worked a full-time bakery job. However, the church retained all her earnings and refused to forward correspondence or messages from her family.
“Colón-Zayas admits, her eyes losing focus, ‘I found myself deeply involved.’ There wasn’t any sexual misconduct or violent acts inflicted upon me. I didn’t observe such incidents. Instead, it was a form of mental manipulation.”
After much contemplation, I eventually made my way back to New York City. Once there, I wrestled with the decision to cut ties with my old church. During this time, I was a student at SUNY Albany, and something truly extraordinary happened – I saw a thought-provoking play performed by Native American women. The experience left a profound impact on me; as I recall thinking, “This is what I’ve been longing for.”
Since the LAByrinth Theater Company was established in 1992, she has been an integral member of the group. Her acting journey commenced off-Broadway, featuring in plays like “Water by the Spoonful” by Quiara Alegría Hudes and creating several roles for Stephen Adly Guirgis’ productions such as “In Arabia We’d All Be Kings,” “Our Lady of 121st Street,” and “Between Riverside and Crazy.” (She reprised her role in “Between Riverside and Crazy” twice, marking her Broadway debut during the third performance in 2022.) Additionally, she wrote, produced, and acted in “Sistah Supreme,” a semiautobiographical one-woman show detailing her upbringing as a Latina in New York during the 1970s and ’80s.
Colón-Zayas shares that LAByrinth served as his supportive artistic circle during a time when he felt underserved by the industry’s limited roles and stereotypical portrayals. He encourages young individuals to seek out their own artistic community, no matter its size. Surround yourself with like-minded people who uplift and encourage you, be it just a few, and engage in creative activities together, whether through writing exercises, rehearsing scenes or anything that ignites your shared passion. This connection will bolster your confidence.
Guirgis, a veteran director who worked on “Sistah Supreme,” shares that Colón-Zayas’ captivating performances are driven by her unwavering pursuit of authenticity and her ability to draw upon a rich reservoir of personal experiences.
He commented, “She will consistently give you her entire heart during her performances, resulting in something raw and authentic onstage. It may elicit pain, laughter, truth, outrage, but above all, it will be genuine. Her acting appears more like real life.”
Colón-Zayas had appeared as a supporting actress in various shows including “Law & Order,” “Sex and the City,” and “Nurse Jackie” for several years. In 2019, she landed her first significant role with a recurring part on OWN’s “David Makes Man.” Following this achievement, she secured another recurring position in HBO’s reboot of “In Treatment” in 2021. Subsequently, she was cast as Tina in the new series “The Bear.”
Her determination as an actor was praised by her spouse, who witnessed her push past setbacks and disappointments to ultimately gain widespread recognition.
“At that point in time, when few opportunities were available for someone like Liza and she faced the challenges that came with it, Zayas shares, his wife’s determination to push through was truly impressive. Despite her renowned theater career and remarkable accomplishments, witnessing her persistence continues to motivate him.”
When I was young, I gained some valuable experience in the food industry. I worked at a doughnut shop where I often spilled the batter, and behind the counter at a deli. Additionally, I served tables at an Italian restaurant in Albany, where I sometimes mixed up orders. “I would constantly spill things or make mistakes,” I recall.
She takes pleasure in cooking but humbly acknowledges her abilities. To gear up for Season 2 and Tina’s promotion as sous-chef, Colón-Zayas underwent rigorous training for a week. This was facilitated by renowned chef David Waltuck of Chanterelle, a James Beard Award recipient. Additionally, she worked closely with Courtney Storer, the creator of “The Bear” and former senior roles holder at Animal and Jon & Vinny’s in Los Angeles.
Colón-Zayas shares that she quickly mastered the fundamentals, including the correct knife-handling techniques. Surprisingly, she discovered just how sharp those knives were on her first day. I’m guessing I had around four to five bandages for my finger injuries that day, as you hardly feel the blade’s sharpness. Despite being an amateur cook at home, I’ve certainly improved since then.
The actress admitted to not returning a James Beard cookbook she borrowed as a teenager. She shared that she hadn’t attempted any recipes from it due to the intimidating ingredients for a young person with limited resources.
In his opinion, Guirgis raves that Colón-Zayas prepares the most extraordinary roast chicken. He delightfully expresses it as “extraordinarily juicy and flawlessly perfect.” Curious about her method, she shares her secret: soaking the chicken in white vinegar, an abundance of garlic, oregano, and pepper for a few hours. To prevent the foil from tearing the skin while roasting, she recommends moistening a paper towel with oil before covering it. Lastly, she suggests brushing the top skin with additional oil and seasoning to ensure a delightfully crispy finish. Upon removal from the oven, the chicken should effortlessly detach from the bone.
Familiarity with every aspect of cooking is a given for Colón-Zayas. However, adjusting to the strange sensation of being on a popular TV program is an experience he’s still acclimating to.
Looking back, she acknowledges that there were instances in her life where the universe shielded her from certain experiences as she wasn’t prepared for them at the time. It’s not easy to appreciate the positive aspects of life when one is accustomed to scarcity and witnessing hardships among loved ones. She doesn’t wish to come across as indifferent to their struggles. With this film, which marks Ayo’s directorial debut and features her prominently, she wept each time she read the script. It served to confirm that she possessed a unique talent.
Determined not to let the tears welling in her eyes cascade down, she pivots.
She gestures vaguely as she speaks, “Well, anyway,” as the vibrant music of the restaurant swirls around us, making it hard for her to focus on her meal. However, by the time we leave, she’s once again tapping her foot in rhythm with the melody.
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2024-07-18 19:49