Law Roach’s Next Act? Self-Help Mogul
As I delve into this captivating narrative, it’s evident that the subject here is a trailblazer, much like Zendaya herself. Her journey mirrors the transformative power of fashion, where costumes become more than just clothing – they become symbols of character, storylines, and cultural impact.
When Law Roach, famed celebrity stylist known as an “image architect,” announced his retirement on Instagram in March 2023, a collective sigh echoed throughout the fashion industry. Known for creating headline-making fashion moments for Zendaya and Céline Dion’s triumphant return to couture, Roach had recently collaborated with stars like Anya Taylor-Joy, Ariana Grande, and Megan Thee Stallion. In 2021, he was ranked as the most powerful stylist by The Hollywood Reporter. He also took on judging roles for America’s Next Top Model and Legendary, a reality show about ball culture. His biggest achievement to date was winning a Council of Fashion Designers of America award in 2022 – a first for a stylist. After a successful awards season where he styled several A-list clients like Euphoria’s Hunter Schafer and Kerry Washington, one may wonder why he would choose to step away from such a flourishing career.
Roach’s journey to becoming a renowned celebrity stylist was far from effortless or predestined. Born on Chicago’s South Side and the eldest of five siblings, Roach openly discusses his battles for financial security. His love for fashion took root during his teenage years, manifesting in a knack for thrifting. He transformed this passion into Deliciously Vintage, a vintage boutique he established in both Chicago and New York City. This store soon gained favor among celebrities, propelling Roach to venture towards Los Angeles where he first crossed paths with Zendaya. Their early collaborations were arduous, as designer brands initially hesitated to work with an unproven talent. However, by 2015, Zendaya graced the Met Gala in a Fausto Puglisi ensemble styled by Roach, thereby securing their places among the fashion industry’s elite.
It was surprising when Roach mentioned exhaustion and losing interest in the fashion industry as his reasons for leaving. However, it became clear that “retirement” wasn’t quite accurate. In fact, just hours after announcing his departure, Roach walked a runway at a Hugo Boss show in Miami. Later, he hosted the red carpet at the British Fashion Awards. He also made it clear that he was still working as Zendaya’s stylist, continuing their successful collaboration on various press tours with themes like sci-fi for “Dune 2” and tennis-inspired for “Challengers”.
Currently, he’s all set to disseminate his expertise to a larger public. Beginning October 1st, he will release his inaugural book, titled “How to Create a Fashion Icon“, blending celebrity tales and style tips tailored for the typical woman. Roach views this book as an opportunity to engage with his vast fanbase, marking a move towards his fresh aspiration: transforming into a self-help magnate. As he explains, “I wanted to create something where those who might never require my services on the red carpet can own a piece of me, at a price point that’s accessible. My profession operates in a specialized market, but with this, I can share it with the people who admire me, many of whom I may never get to meet.
In an interview with TIME, Roach shared insights on backstage styling experiences with his clients, discussed his enduring influence as a Black pioneer in the fashion world, and hinted at an upcoming venture scheduled for release towards the end of the year.
TIME: You write about the value of your confidence repeatedly in the book, from the first chapter to the very end. How did you have that faith when you were just starting out in a competitive field and you were hearing more nos than yeses?
Roach: Essentially, obstacles serve as barriers to things not initially meant for you. When you view them positively, they don’t appear so detrimental – you may even find yourself appreciating them. If something seemed destined for me, there’s always a ‘yes’ hidden somewhere, you just need to discover the paths leading to it. Zendaya and I embarked on our fashion journeys concurrently. At that time, neither of us were well-known, making it difficult for others to lend us clothes. This compelled me to think more creatively and hone my styling skills. I shrank the world in order to obtain the items necessary for her.
You described your vision for Zendaya, when you first started to work together and wanted to help her become a star in the fashion world: “If fashion is a tool of communication, Z was going to be a polyglot: she could speak any language fluently. And each one was her native tongue.” This was a different approach from other rising celebrities at the time who were developing signature looks. Do you feel like those words still apply to Zendaya?
In my conversations, Z endears herself as my longest-standing creative ally, serving as both my inspiration and collaborator. She’s not only my professional companion but also my confidante, much like a sister or a dear friend. When we first began our journey together, there was no defined style for her; she would often switch between short and long hair, keeping everyone guessing. Over the years, her appearance has evolved, becoming more refined, yet still maintaining distinct Zendaya traits such as her love for Christian Louboutin heels. However, in the early stages of our collaboration, we chose not to assign her a specific style.
Did you take a different approach with other clients, cultivating a very specific look or message?
Are you saying I’m essentially labeling myself as an architect? A significant part of this role involves conducting thorough research to understand their identity or aspirations. For instance, when working with Ariana Grande, she was embodying a style we all recognize – the high-boots, a-line skirt, and the high ponytail. This particular look was not only distinctive but also iconic for her during that phase of her womanhood.
There’s an anecdote in the book when you take readers behind the scenes to the fitting with Céline Dion that resulted in her famously wearing a Vetements Titanic hoodie in 2016. You write that instead of presenting the hoodie to her, you laid it out on the table and let her discover it herself. You also write about studying psychology and using those skills to work with your clients. Do you find that styling feels almost like therapy?
Working with a stylist like me benefits both parties – the stylist and their client. One of the most heartfelt compliments I’ve ever received was from Céline, who told me that being in my presence and interacting with the clothes helped her cope with the loss of her husband. When she shared this sentiment, the emotion behind her words left a lasting impact on me. This incident underscores the power of clothing – how they can serve as protection or armor – and it’s easy to forget that sometimes.
Has there ever been an instance when a client loves an outfit, but visually it doesn’t work? And if so, do you speak up?
Absolutely, absolutely, absolutely. When you approach me, expressing that you’ve never felt more beautiful than right now, I can’t contradict that. It’s not my place to do so. If we both agree on something and it makes you feel amazing, then that’s how it is. Your confidence in yourself radiates, making others perceive the dress as the best one too. The beauty truly comes from within.
In simpler terms, it seems like your role is about preparing and organizing the elements surrounding her – the outfits, hairstyles, makeup, and accessories – for a public appearance or event. You’re not the one who will be on the spotlight, facing criticism from the masses. Instead, your task is to ensure that everything else supporting her choice looks flawless.
Speaking of highly photographed red carpet looks, the Thierry Mugler archival robot suit Zendaya wore for the Dune: Part Two premiere in London went viral. Can you discuss the process behind the look? Was it comfortable?
Should you be a follower of fashion trends, you’d recognize that the collection by Thierry Mugler we’re discussing is one of its most iconic, and it’s been a dream since the film “Dune.” We corresponded with Casey Cadwallader, the creative director at Mugler, and scheduled meetings to discuss measurements and fittings. Unfortunately, there was no room for alterations. Fortunately, luck was on our side as everything seemed to fall into place like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. If, hypothetically speaking, the distance from her elbow to wrist had been slightly incorrect, it would have thrown off the rest of the garment. It felt almost destined that she would wear that piece.
But no, it wasn’t comfortable. Zendaya has the ability to take on whatever the narrative, and she always has. That suit wasn’t any less comfortable than the Joan of Arc Versace look at the Met Gala a few years ago. But you would’ve thought that she had on a dress of feathers, the way she moved. She was so graceful and poised.
Your work with Zendaya for her press tours has always referenced her roles, from a custom Valentino Haute Couture gown that referenced spider webs for Spiderman: No Way Home to the Mugler suit for Dune 2 to sparkly Loewe tennis-themed dresses for Challengers. Margot Robbie famously dressed in outfits that referenced archival Barbie looks while promoting her movie. Do you think others in the industry have taken a note from your playbook?
It appears that this new tool is being used by many to publicize a film. We’ve consistently employed this method for all of Zendaya’s projects, and it seems the fashion during the press tour will hold equal, if not greater, significance compared to the tour itself.
When you were starting out, you mentioned wanting a career that was on par with Rachel Zoe’s—Zoe being the person who brought the role of the celebrity stylist to the mainstream. Do you think you succeeded? And if so, how do you think history will remember your work?
I can confidently say I’ve achieved success, reaching a level comparable to renowned figures like Rachel Zoe in terms of influence on fashion and pop culture. However, I aspire to be recognized for more than just dressing a pretty girl in an attractive outfit. While I share the same industry with Rachel Zoe, it is important to note that we are distinct individuals. My unique contribution lies in challenging and redefining the stereotype of what a celebrity stylist looks like, a aspect of my career that will be remembered and discussed.
Affirming that you’re equally deserving as your peers in any setting, including the fashion industry, is rooted in the belief that our talents are on par with those of our counterparts of a different race. My career serves as proof that I believe I merit a spot in this field, and I’ve worked diligently to make it a reality. Now, not only do I open doors but also strive to ensure they remain open for individuals who share my ethnic background.
What does life look like, now that you’ve moved away from full-time styling with clients and have narrowed your focus there to work solely with Zendaya? In addition to the book, do you have any big plans or projects you can share?
I’m working on a digital platform that will launch in November that will help to pull back the velvet curtain and give people access to the styling industry. I’ve had such an amazing career as a stylist, and now it’s: What can I do for the next generation? I’m also outlining another book, on how to practice the law of attraction and how to manifest. I’m interested in building an entire lifestyle brand around these principles. How do we turn that into decor? What other things? I absolutely want to be a mogul.
That sounds like self-help. Is that what you want to do?
Title Suggestion: Creating Your Own Iconic Pathway – A Guide for Any Industry
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2024-09-23 18:06