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How a ’90s Brand Catering to Skateboard Kids Became a Multibillion-Dollar Business

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The upcoming ESPN 30 for 30 documentary titled “Empire Skate,” airing on June 30, uses footage from over three decades ago to depict a snapshot of history: a group of rebellious skateboard kids who frequented the initial Manhattan store of the iconic streetwear brand, Supreme. These youths were often found in the backroom, drinking beer and rolling dice, a place where only the cool members of the skateboard crew were welcome. The atmosphere was often hazy due to smoke, as described by Steven Cales, one of the emerging pro skateboarders, as reminiscent of the comedy duo Cheech and Chong.

At the initial Supreme store, numerous customers were not met with friendly service, as evidenced by the following statement from Washington Post fashion critic Rachel Tashjian in the documentary: “Even from its early beginnings, what was remarkable about Supreme was how ominously New York it felt.” It appears that those who did not conform to the store’s atmosphere could anticipate an unfriendly reception. As another commentator in the film notes, these kids could be quite harsh towards you.

In the Empire Skate documentary, the main store manager, who goes by the name Chappy, admits, “I acted unreasonably.

This marked the beginnings of a billion-dollar empire and a globally influential fashion label.

Essentially, Empire Skate’s argument revolves around the worldwide impact of the raw and authentic skateboarding culture that sprouted from New York City during the early to mid ’90s, a point supported by TIME Studios as one of the film’s executive producers.

Tashjian states to TIME that this American fashion label is among the great ones, alongside Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. He considers it the most significant fashion brand of the 21st century, possibly even globally. Tom Ford might disagree, but Tashjian believes his assessment is accurate. This brand has significantly influenced people’s perceptions about status and consumerism.

The revolution of skateboarding can be traced back to the early 90s when it seemed to hit a slump. As highlighted in the documentary ‘Empire Skate’, Tony Hawk identified 1991 as a particularly challenging year for skateboarding, with “Vert” skateboarding in California losing its charm. However, things started changing around 1993, as New York City emerged as a new hotspot for skateboarding. The skaters in the city adopted a more improvisational style, using the urban landscape – including trash cans, stairs, rails, and building walls – as their personal playgrounds. If they occasionally provoked security guards or passersby, it was all part of the excitement. According to legendary skateboarder Rodney Mullen, what was significant and had a profound impact on modern skateboarding culture was the movement that originated in New York City, particularly its East Coast scene.

According to Tony Alva, a legendary figure in the sport, skateboarding went underground in New York, yet simultaneously, it’s being replanted and rejuvenated.

As I step into the narrative, allow me to introduce myself – James Jebbia, a designer and entrepreneur at heart. Back in the early ’90s, I found myself captivated by the unique style of these rebellious skaters. They didn’t just wear skate attire; they sported high-end brands like Polo, Gucci, and Champion. This was my inspiration when I penned a letter to GQ in 2019, sharing my thoughts.

Recognizing the need for a hub within the burgeoning skate scene, I established Supreme in 1994, opening our flagship store on Lafayette Street downtown. Our offerings ranged from vibrant skate decks to T-shirts and merchandise bearing our iconic logo – a bold red rectangle with “Supreme” written in white letters within its borders.

Despite the pandemonium that frequently erupted outside our store and behind closed doors, I was determined to maintain an immaculate showroom. The neatly folded T-shirts and colorful skate decks hanging on display created a stark contrast to the typical cluttered appearance of a skate shop. This arrangement felt unusual, yet it was precisely this refined touch that set us apart.

In this scenario, both Supreme aimed to satisfy the preferences of local skateboarders and encouraged them to endorse the brand’s authenticity worldwide. Interestingly, Jebbia, who wasn’t a skater himself, sought out rising talent. As shared by Cales in Empire Skate, Jebbia would observe him skate across the street from a nearby diner. A number of young skaters drawn to Supreme’s shop were featured in the 1995 controversial movie Kids, directed by Larry Clark. This film, which contained graphic dialogue about underage sex and a scene depicting sexual assault, gave the Supreme skaters a kind of ‘in’ factor. They gained entry into the trendiest New York City nightclubs and parties, and they marked lampposts all over the city with Supreme stickers. Essentially, they served as early social media influencers.

Supremely departed from that location. The business gained recognition for their weekly product launches, available both online and in physical stores; their scarcity-based product strategy, emulated across the industry, fueled demand and ignited a passionate resale market. As Tashjian shared with TIME, “Supreme is undoubtedly one of the brands that transformed the T-shirt into a desirable item.” In 2019, GQ stated, “Thanks to Supreme, the ‘drop’ has become a popular fashion term.” Brands such as Burberry and Gucci have since adopted this approach.

The business led the way in teaming up with other companies, broadening its influence. In the early 2000s, Nike and Supreme were the first to collaborate: enthusiasts of sneakers and skating flocked to Supreme’s stores in Manhattan and Tokyo hours before they opened. Subsequent partnerships with Louis Vuitton, Timberland, Lacoste, Dickies, and others ensued; businesses like Target and Vineyard Vines have also adopted this approach. In 2018, Trevor Noah bestowed the title of Menswear Designer of the Year upon Jebbia at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. Artists such as Damien Hirst designed skate decks, while figures ranging from Kermit the Frog to Madonna to actress Chloë Sevigny, who debuted in Kids, have adorned Supreme products. Even Supreme and Oreo teamed up on a cookie: the wafer was colored red and bore the company logo.

Despite the halcyon early boom days fading into the distant past, it’s been crucial for Supreme to maintain its popularity. In the year 2020, when travel was limited and people had extra money to spend on clothing due to restrictions, skateboarding, an outdoor activity that promotes social distancing, saw a surge in participation. VF Corporation, which owns brands like The North Face, Vans, and Timberland, purchased Supreme for $2.1 billion during this time. However, Supreme’s sales started to decline: from March 2022 to the same month in 2023, their revenues dropped by 7%, totaling $523.1 million. In the autumn of 2024, Supreme was sold again, this time to EssilorLuxottica, a European company renowned for its eyewear brands such as Ray-Ban and Oakley, for $1.5 billion.

As a passionate film buff, I find myself expressing a similar sentiment about Supreme. It seems they’ve almost reached a point of ubiquity, making it challenging to maintain an air of rarity and elusiveness, given that their products appear to be worn by just about everyone.

Disappointing news headlines have brought about troubles. In 2023, the creative director Tremaine Emory departed from Supreme, expressing concerns over systemic racism within the company and alleging that Jebbia had deleted images portraying lynching and slavery from a partnership with Arthur Jafa, a Black artist. (Supreme disputed Emory’s claims in their statement at the time.) In May, professional skateboarder Tyshawn Jones, aged 26 and a long-term representative of Supreme, filed a $26 million defamation lawsuit against the brand, asserting that Supreme attempted to blacklist him following the termination of his endorsement contract with the company. (Supreme has remained silent on this legal matter.)

Despite having stores in numerous other significant U.S. cities and international locations like London, Paris, Milan, and Japan, Supreme expanded into fresh markets by launching physical stores and online businesses in South Korea in 2023 and China in 2024. In the latter part of 2023 and into early 2024, VF Corporation noted a growing sales trend before Supreme’s acquisition by EssilorLuxottica. Recently, Supreme debuted its inaugural store in Miami.

In just seven countries, Supreme boasts 18 stores, leaving ample opportunities for further growth. “It’s engaging for young people to discuss what’s trendy and unfashionable,” notes Tashjian. “However, it’s a robust brand with longevity. At this stage, it’s a company that will endure for many years.

Not too shabby for a bunch of skateboard tricksters, just hanging around the shop.  

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2025-06-26 15:07

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