Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Couture Show: A Debut for the Ages

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How does someone continue the exceptional design work left behind by pioneers like Martin Margiela, and build upon a spectacular final collection like John Galliano’s Fall 2024 couture show? It’s Glenn Martens who offers an answer to this challenge.

Without a doubt, Martens excels in transforming fashion brands, much like Midas turning everything he touched into gold. His knack for capturing the essence of established brands while staying current is remarkable. For instance, his leadership at Diesel reflects its Italian denim heritage, and his Fall 2025 Maison Margiela Artisanal debut mirrors the brand’s roots, emphasizing core Margiela features and preserving the dramatic flair of Galliano’s reign.

On July 9th, the designer led his audience back to Le Centquatre, a cultural space in Paris where Martin Margiela showcased his last collection in March 2009. The flooring was adorned with broken tiles, while the walls were draped with posters that appeared haphazardly pasted and worn, as if they had been there for years.

The setting offered a striking contrast for the initial appearances, clearly echoing the 2009 exhibition through polyurethane outfits featuring transparent gowns, coats, and of course, Martin Margiela’s distinctive masks in various styles. However, the show took an unexpected twist as models donned all-encompassing metallic gowns, giving off a chilling impression of being molten metals gliding ominously along the catwalk.

The influence of Galliano is evident, with exaggerated corsets and opulent floral designs, aged by an antique sheen. Martens reinterprets these luxurious Renaissance-era motifs in the context of Margiela’s deconstruction philosophy, piecing together fragmented fabrics to create trench coats, long skirts, and body-hugging dresses.

Gradually, a worn-out feel starts to show up. A polo shirt adorned with jewels seemed like it had been unearthed from the ground, while the jeans, a pair of light-washed ones, gave off an “ancient mining shaft” vibe. The supposed leather jackets and skirts exuded a stiff and rugged texture, and even the delicate, flowing materials appeared charred and torn.

In his final words, Martens reassured everyone that renewal is just around the corner. Meanwhile, a man’s ensemble donned emerald jewels and an adaptable chrome mask, followed by a long dress adorned with gold treasures from a chest. In another instance, a voluminous tulle dress hinted at flowers, concluding in a floral headpiece, while transparent plastic resurfaces in a multi-colored coat.

In the end, the show concluded with one of the few solid-colored pieces from the collection gracing the stage. This vibrant lime green ensemble, featuring a ruffled bodice against a flowing skirt, symbolized new growth and renewal, hinting at the fresh start for Maison Margiela.

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2025-07-10 19:56