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Tom Ford Is Back To The Business Of Dressing (For The Party)

BBG News

Despite no longer leading his own label, Tom Ford‘s heartfelt congratulatory hug symbolizes a strong endorsement. Such was the moment at Haider Ackermann’s first Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2025 show held in Paris today.

Haider Ackermann took on the role of creative director in September of last year, replacing Peter Hawking who was dismissed unexpectedly. Prior to his dismissal, Hawking had worked under Tom Ford from Gucci through to Ford’s retirement, but managed to stay in the top position for just a year. In contrast, Ackermann, who had recently collaborated on an impressive couture collection with Jean Paul Gaultier and was seeking new opportunities, seemed like an ideal candidate for the job.

The similarities between Ackermann and Tom Ford are evident. Both designers exude a smooth, seductive charm and boast an impressive list of celebrity friends. While Tom Ford’s shows were renowned for their star-studded front rows, Ackermann can claim to have been the one who introduced the popular couple, Kylie Jenner and Timothée Chalamet.

As I eagerly awaited the upcoming fashion show, Ackermann dropped a hint on Instagram, revealing a nude self-portrait by Ethan James Green. While the actual collection likely had more clothes than just that teaser image, it felt like we were on the verge of seeing the iconic Tom Ford aesthetic return in full force.

On the catwalk, models strolled leisurely, adding a deliberate break to the fast-paced rhythm of ready-to-wear fashion. The collection showcased a variety of styles from classic evening wear genres. One-shouldered dresses were slit high above the hip and slim suits were made vibrant with intriguing color coordinations. Cobalt peeked out under silver, neon green illuminated powder pink, and purple blended into chocolate brown – these were just a few of the eye-catching color combinations. For the post-party, there was an unstructured tuxedo with a jacket in hand. Finally, for when the day breaks, a satin blue robe was matched with the morning’s newspaper.

As a fashion enthusiast, I must say that Ackermann was among the rare designers this season who steered clear of fur and its trendy counterparts, such as mohair sweaters or lilac fringed gowns. Instead, leather took center stage in the early part of their collection, showcasing a white crocodile top, various biker jackets, and even one-handed motorcycle gloves.

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2025-03-05 23:26

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